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Trailer Build 2


Two 8mm bolts and nylocs secure the ramps and lighting board.



When loading and unloading, the bolts are removed, the lighting board is put under the trailer and the same bolts secure the ramps in place... this.



With the trailer close to the left wall, there's just enough room to get the trolley jack, lawnmower, wheelie bin etc. past on the right.



Yes, I'm still alive - I've been busy with the usual tedious Spring jobs and chores around the house and garden. Anyway, back to the trailer...

A small cross-member has been added, just behind the trailer wheels. This will hold the junction box for the wiring. It will also carry the wires across to the N/S marker light and provide a means of support for the rear of the brake cables, to stop them dragging on the ground.

The trailer has been fully stripped again and is now waiting to be galvanised. I had intended to paint the trailer, thinking that galvanising would be very expensive. However, a local company has quoted just £105.75 to galvanise all the metalwork (except the axle). That puts the price of the trailer up a bit, but there's no way paint will ever look as good or last as long. Hopefully, I can get the bits there this week, before I go on holiday. I've booked another airfield day with MSE on June 5th, so I'd like the trailer to be completely finished by then.



Back from holiday and straight into the garage. I did manage to get all the metalwork to the galvanisers before I left and collected it yesterday. The trailer frame went back together very quickly (I've had plenty of practise!), but this time I've also adjusted the brakes, connected the cables and fitted the brake rod and compensator.


The brake rod, cables and compensator.



Nearly there, just the wiring to finish. I'll try to take some better outdoor pictures of the trailer next weekend.



Junction box fitted and all wiring completed.


The winch and mounting bracket. Hopefully, it won't be needed too often, so I'll probably unbolt it and keep it in the van to stop the strap getting wet and dirty.



Some more pictures of the finished article...





To secure the car on the trailer, I've used 12mm eyebolts, quick-links and turnbuckles. At the rear, 5mm steel brackets have been bolted to the bottom of the shock absorber bracket. At the front of the car, identical brackets are bolted to the bottom of the outer subframe support mounting bolts. A bungee between each pair of turnbuckles ensures they won't work loose.



The trailer is still working perfectly, but a change of towing vehicle meant that I had to reduce the vertical load on the towbar. I made a longer draw bar, this time made from channel-section steel.

I've added a socket and plug at the rear, to easily remove the lighting board.

Build Costs

Item (Quantity) Supplier Total Cost £ 
Peakride braked 750KG rubber suspension beam axle Avon Trailer & Towbar Centre 220.90
Bradley Doublelock auto-reverse cast coupling Avon Trailer & Towbar Centre 164.50
Wheels and tyres 165Rx13 8 ply (3) Avon Trailer & Towbar Centre 123.38
Jockey wheel Avon Trailer & Towbar Centre 25.85
Prop stands and clamps (2) Avon Trailer & Towbar Centre 17.63
Winch and strap Avon Trailer & Towbar Centre 25.38
Lighting/cable/connectors/reflectors Avon Trailer & Towbar Centre 34.66
Mudguards (2) Avon Trailer & Towbar Centre 21.15
Brake compensator and rod Avon Trailer & Towbar Centre 9.40
3mm steel channels 250x75x25mm, 3M lengths (2) Resurgem Engineering 88.00
4mm steel channels 248x40mm, 1.5M lengths (2) Resurgem Engineering 48.00
60x60x6mm equal angle steel 1580mm length (1) Resurgem Engineering 9.00
60x60x6mm equal angle steel 1880mm length (1) Resurgem Engineering 11.00
60x60x8mm equal angle steel 1880mm length (1) Resurgem Engineering 13.00
60x60x8mm equal angle steel 2350mm lengths (2) Resurgem Engineering 27.00
Galvanising of all metal parts (except axle) McArthur Galvanising 105.75





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