30/01/05
I've not been in the garage for two weekends, due to a stinking cold. However, even in my sick-bed, I've been doing some homework. With the help of the wiring diagrams in the workshop manual and a very useful book I bought on eBay (Haynes Automotive Engine Management & Fuel Injection Systems Manual), I've worked out what wires I'll need from the Metro's main loom and the 414's engine loom, where they go and what they do. All the required wires have now been removed from the loom and put roughly in position on the car. All wires had their resistance tested with a multi-meter before being transplanted.
The wires needed for the front of the car. I've used one of the large bulkhead grommets from the butchered Metro loom. The 2 multi-connectors in the top left of this picture are from the engine loom. The large multi-connector for the MEMS ECU can be seen in the top right corner.
The wires needed for the rear of the car - lights, fuel pump and fuel gauge sender.
This is nearly all the wiring I'll need on the panel. I've ordered the fuse box, junction boxes, multi-connectors, relays, spirap, harness tape etc. from Vehicle Wiring Products, so hopefully I can really get stuck in to this job this coming weekend.
All the parts I ordered from VWP arrived the next morning, so I've had a productive Sunday in the garage. The new fuse box, junction boxes and relays have been mounted and I've started to wire them up. The multi-connector in the top left of this picture is for the wires going to the rear of the car. From foreground to background in this picture, the relays are: indicators, headlights, main (ignition), fuel pump and oxygen sensor.
I've cut another hole in the N/S/F bulkhead to take the second big Metro grommet. The 2 multi-connectors in the foreground are for the engine loom. The other 2 are for the lighting, horn and cooling fan wires.
06/02/05
After another Sunday's work, all connections have been made and tested. The thick brown wire and the gaggle of black wires are temporary battery and earth connections to allow testing of the circuits, switches and relays.
I don't have any lights for the car yet, but I've been able to test the supply for the side, tail, brake, fog and headlights, the direction indicators and hazard warning lights, the handbrake and low brake fluid warning lights, the horn, cooling fan motor and ignition coil. Success!
Even more satisfying is the fact that when the ignition is turned on and off, the MEMS ECU controls the fuel pump and main relays and the stepper motor exactly as my Haynes Fuel Injection Manual says it should. That kept me amused for at least ten minutes.
I've also fitted a multi-connector to the ignition switch wires. The whole electrics panel can be removed after disconnecting the 6 new multi-connectors and the original column switch connectors.
13/02/05
Still some tidying to do, but I'm reluctant to completely cover every wire in tape until I've run the engine. The fuses in the fuse box protect: 1:brake lights and instrument, 2:sidelights and clock, 3:radiator cooling fan, 4:ignition coil and MEMS ECU, 5:indicators, 6:hazard warning lights and horn, 7:dip beam, 8:main beam.
The fuel pump, oxygen sensor and fuel injection components are protected by fuses built into their respective relays.
The leftovers from the Metro and 414 looms.
The instrument panel at night, showing the warning lights for sidelights, low oil pressure, no charge and low brake fluid (the high-beam and direction indicator warning light circuits also work, but I need to get 3 new bulbs for them). As the instruments will be set back under the Firefox's scuttle where it will be rather dark, the instrument illumination has been wired to come on with the ignition. As I never wear a watch, the clock is very useful.
20/02/05
To make the dash panel, I started by placing the scuttle on a sheet of 1.6mm aluminium and drawing the outline. The length of wood is to hold the scuttle sides in the same position as they are when bolted to the chassis, as they tend to splay outwards when unsupported.
The panel was then cut out with a jigsaw...
...and tried for size and fit. The dash will eventually be covered in black vinyl to reduce glare and reflections, so the scuffs and scrapes won't be seen.
I then cut a hole so that the instruments can be seen, plus a matching hole with cover plate on the N/S for access to the fuse box.
The view of the instruments from the (approximate) driving position. The bolt at the top centre of the scuttle will also secure the rear view mirror.