31/07/05
I finally managed to source some 19mm and 22mm radiator hose and a suitable reducer. These were used to replace the temporary green hose that went from the cylinder head outlet round to the thermostat bypass. With that fitted, the cooling system was refilled, this time with the correct ratio of anti freeze.
New bypass hoses and joiner.
After running the engine up to full temperature, I noticed a small leak from the top of the radiator. This wasn't a great surprise as it was a bit tatty - it's probably 14 years old. I thought about getting a replacement from the breakers, but a brand new radiator was only £50, so I went for one of those.
06/08/05
Time to think about preparing the car for the SVA test...
A long, narrow piece of 3mm rubber matting was used to cover the lower dash chassis rail.
It was also used to make a gear linkage gaiter...
...and a steering column shroud.
14/08/05
I've made some mountings for the scuttle panel, fitted the new brake discs and pads and bled the brakes. I also had to spend some time stripping and cleaning the low fluid level warning switch in the master cylinder cap as it was only working intermittently.
A 6mm studding joiner was used for the handbrake extension rod. The two hexagon-headed bolts under the cable will have to be replaced by button-headed ones which are lower profile, to ensure the cable doesn't rub on them.
Whilst bleeding the O/S/F brake, I noticed a drip coming from the engine - the water pump was leaking. It was only £20 for a new one (all Metro parts are dirt cheap), but it meant draining the cooling system again and removing the engine mounting and cam belt.
With the engine mount off, I asked Rod to weld a supporting gusset to the front bracket to give a bit more strength (I've noticed that Onyx now supply the mount with this already done).
21/08/05
To keep the dash free from wiring, a small illuminated toggle switch from Maplin was fitted to the upper steering cowl. This is for the fog lamp and is wired so that it only works when the headlights are switched on.
I've also drilled the scuttle panel, mounted the repeater lights and wired them up. The bulbs can be removed from the lights by reaching under the dash, thus avoiding any wiring and connectors on the scuttle.
The car is now fully functional. The engine, gearbox, clutch, hand and footbrakes, horn, lights, instruments and warning lights are all working properly and hopefully I've cured all the leaks. I've already applied for a SVA test at the Bristol station during the week commencing 26th of September. There's not much left to do now - mainly mirrors, mudguards, seat cushions and a few odds and sods. However, I've got various tasks to do in the house and garden and a holiday coming up, so late September is a realistic target. The car will be going for the test still in its yellow primer and minor jobs such as the dash panel covering and glove box can wait until after the test.
24/08/05
I've been given a date and time for the SVA test - 8.00am on Wednesday 28th September at the Bristol test station.
18/09/05
Back from the Highlands and straight into the garage! On the Sunday before I left for Scotland, I skived off and went out for the day on a friends boat, instead of working on the car. I'd better get my arse in gear - SVA is Wednesday week!
Some more of the flat rubber was used to make a handbrake lever gaiter. As mentioned previously, the hex-headed bolts under the handbrake cable have been replaced with button-headed ones, to increase clearance.
The original Metro interior mirror bolted to a steel strip (which will need some Titanfast trim). I'd eventually like to use a small Racetech mirror, but they're not very SVA friendly.
I've had to remake the mountings for the front headlights and indicators. David from Onyx has been reading this web site and pointed out that the indicators need to be visible from 45 degrees inwards. With the indicators under the headlights, this was not possible, so I've made some longer brackets which allow the indicators to be positioned vertically and further out.
After messing about with Titanfast trim for ages, I decided to wrap some rubber around the brackets, to protect any sharp edges. Not pretty, but effective. Because of the new position, I've also had to make some small extension looms for the indicators as my original wiring wouldn't reach.
A centre bar for the nose cone has been fitted. It was made rather crudely by crushing, bending and drilling each end of a 10mm diameter aluminium tube. I wasn't going to fit anything in the aperture, but it's needed to prevent the SVA test sphere contacting the radiator edges, fan switch and hose clips. The cap-head bolts holding the nose cone on will also be replaced with button heads, to meet SVA radius requirements.
I've now insured the car (using the chassis number) through Footman James. Cover starts on Monday 26th September. Fully comprehensive insurance with an annual limit of 3000 miles cost just £161.70. The policy includes 4 named drivers (all over 35 with clean licences), £100 excess and breakdown and legal expenses cover. Bargain.